New build guide

The 11-month builder warranty inspection: a new construction checklist

Updated 9 November 2026 · 7 minute read

That hairline crack above the bedroom door wasn’t there at closing. Neither was the gap where the baseboard meets the floor, or the door that now sticks every August. New houses move as the lumber dries and the house goes through its first full set of seasons. Most of that movement is normal, but the fixes are often the builder’s job only for the first year. The 11-month inspection is how you hand them the list before that window shuts.

What builder warranties usually cover

Builder warranties are not standard. Coverage depends on your builder, your contract and sometimes your state. That said, many follow a similar three-tier pattern:

Appliances, water heaters and the furnace or AC unit itself often carry their own manufacturer warranties instead. Many warranties also exclude normal shrinkage, landscaping and damage from poor upkeep. Read your own papers before you start, and note three things: the exact end date of each tier, how claims must be sent, and what is excluded.

Why month 11, not month 12

If you send the list in the last week, you’re relying on the builder to log it before the deadline and agree that it counts. Sending it around month 11 gives you room to:

• Get the builder’s acknowledgment in writing while cover is clearly still active.
• Book an independent inspector, who may have a waiting list.
• Add anything the builder’s rep spots during their visit.
• Follow up if the reply is slow or an item is refused.

If you’ve kept a running list since move-in, month 11 is mostly a final sweep. If you haven’t, start now and give yourself a weekend.

Room-by-room checklist

Take your phone, a notepad, painter’s tape to mark spots, and a small flashlight. Go in the same order in every room: ceiling, walls, windows, doors, floor, fixtures.

Every room

• Drywall cracks, especially at the corners of doors and windows
• Nail pops (small round bumps or circles in the paint)
• Doors that stick, swing open on their own, or don’t latch
• Windows that are hard to open or lock, fog between panes, or let in drafts
• Gaps in trim, baseboards and crown molding
• Floors that squeak, dip or have lifting or separating boards
• Outlets and switches that don’t work, and covers that are loose

Kitchen and bathrooms

• Cracked or missing grout and caulk around tubs, showers, sinks and backsplashes
• Slow drains, low water pressure, or drips under sinks
• Toilets that rock or run
• Cabinet doors and drawers that are misaligned or don’t close
• Countertop chips or seams that are separating
• Bathroom exhaust fans that are weak or noisy

Basement, garage and utility areas

• Cracks in the foundation or slab, and any sign of water or dampness
• Garage door that is noisy or uneven
• Water heater and HVAC areas: drips, rust, or stains on the floor
• Rooms that are much hotter or colder than the rest of the house

Attic

• Insulation that is thin, uneven, or pushed aside
• Water stains on the roof deck or rafters
• Bathroom fans that vent into the attic instead of outside

Only go into the attic if there is safe access and a floored path. Stepping between joists can put a foot through the ceiling. This is one good reason to hire an inspector.

Outside

• Soil that slopes toward the house, or water pooling near the foundation after rain
• Downspouts that dump water right at the wall
• Cracked driveway, walkway or patio concrete
• Missing or lifted shingles, and loose flashing (check from the ground or with binoculars)
• Gaps in siding, caulk and paint around windows and doors

Should you hire an independent inspector?

For most new builds, it’s worth considering. A builder’s walk-through is done by the builder. An independent home inspector works for you, and they routinely check places owners don’t: the roof, the attic, the crawl space, and the electrical panel. Fees vary by area and house size, so get a quote or two.

When you book, say it is an 11-month warranty inspection so they write the report with that in mind. Ask for photos with each finding. You can then attach the relevant pages to your list.

Don’t open electrical panels or poke at gas lines yourself. If you suspect a problem with either, note it on the list and leave the checking to a licensed pro.

How to send the list

How you send the list matters almost as much as what’s on it.

• Use the channel your warranty names. Many builders use a portal or a specific form or email address. A phone call or a chat with the site manager may not count as a claim.
• Put it in writing. One document, with a date at the top.
• Number every item and give its location: “7. Primary bedroom, crack above closet door, about 10 inches.”
• Add a photo for each item, with something for scale where it helps. Keep the original photos with their dates.
• Keep a copy of what you sent, the confirmation, and every reply. Write down the date and name for any phone call.
• Ask for a written response, including which items they will fix and when.

If the builder refuses an item you believe is covered, ask them to point to the warranty clause. Your papers may also describe a dispute or third-party process.

After the list is sent

Be home for the repair visits if you can, and check each fix before the crew leaves. Tick items off on your copy. Anything not fixed by the end date should still be on record from your dated list, so keep following up in writing. Then note the end dates for the systems and structural tiers. Those run for years, and it’s easy to forget you still have them.

Questions new build owners ask